Le manteau de Capucine Bonneterre (Capucine Bonneterre’s coat)
Capucine Bonneterre, 6th Prize, 2015 call for creation “Aubusson weaves fashion”
Capucine Bonneterre, young textile creator, proposed an elegant coat in a Japanese spirit, half-way between garment and object of choreographic composition.
Along her researches on the technic of the Aubusson tapestry, Capucine Bonneterre saw an analogy between the relays – weaving’s interruptions which allow the color changing – and the principle of the buttonhole. She then decided to integrate this technical imperative of the tapestry in the graphic composition of her coat.
Entirely thought as to be woven, this project emphasizes the play on lights between matte material and shiny fibers within red shades. The contrast between the apparent simplicity of the weaving on the right side and the wrong side of the tapestry, which is “looser” and furnished, is put forward by leaving visible parts of the garment on the wrong side.
This long coat, woven in one unique piece, is thought up to be assembled without finishing stitches, via a folding system, then set in place by the lacing and the braiding of the buttonhole network. The presentation of the work is to be imagined in a scenography, which is close to the performance: a choreographed passage from the hanging tapestry to the garment, which would be laced up to the body.
Capucine Bonneterre has graduated the École nationale supérieure des Arts décoratifs in Paris (section “clothes design”). She notably collaborates with Cacharel, Christophe Lemaire.